Living in Moscow is akin to taking part in a survival game. Moscow is raw emotion: frustration, happiness, anger, love. The Muscovite must cope with the lack of sunshine, endless traffic jams, freezing temperatures and corruption - the frustrating type that turns one's daily routine into one big labyrinth - nothing is certain, nothing is constant and nothing is safe.
As a result human emotions become colder and more calculating, the abundance of beautiful young women and scarcity of rich old men debase human nature, the top restaurants become "meat markets" where young flesh has a price. Uncertainty in politics, uncertainty in tomorrow, even uncertainty in today... It's like walking on thin ice.
But despite or maybe because of all these difficulties, Muscovites are truly fascinating people, they are intelligent, extremely well read with an ability to live everyday like it's the last, they are passionate and loving. The corruption and bureaucracy that has penetrated every layer of society has made trust and respect the two most coveted traits and once the two are established friendships are forged forever.
Muscovites are also very funny and ironic, black humour is one of the best ways of dealing with the daily realities; they are real fighters in every sense of the word. Russian hospitality is incredible where tables have enough food to feed a small army and the wine taps never stop. Russians are also particularly sentimental and superstitious which further adds to their charms.
I have not been to Moscow in two years, and despite the traffic I really enjoyed my trip, loved seeing old friends (particularly the little sunshine miss M an old friend who I have not seen in half a decade), I loved walking the streets that I grew up on, and loved eating (a little too much) OMG!!! the restaurants in Moscow are incredible even TGI Friday's has freshly squeezed juices and a good selection of teas (Russians love the tea almost as much as their hard liquor). Oh and Mario is the best Italian restaurant outside of Italy (although you could probably buy a ticket to Italy with the price of the meal) - the tuna and salmon carpaccio, home made wild boar pasta and the tiramisu were absolutely on a different level = heaven and food porn! Moscow is definitely not cheap, but the service and food more then make up for it.
I didn't have much time to do anything cultural but I did go to the one place I was dying to go to which was Dasha Zhukova's Garage Contemporary Art Gallery. I have had a crush on her ever since she came up with those shiny wet effect leggings for her KOVA & T label in 2006 (www.kovaandt.com). Her style is incredible, her BF is one of the richest men in Russia and she has now opened one of the coolest exhibition spaces in Moscow...and she is BFF with all the London it-girls, she is like a Russian Alexa Chung but much hotter!
Garage the art space, is housed in a landmark of early 20th-century Russian architecture, a former bus garage originally designed in 1926, by the architect and artist Konstantin Melnikov and the structural engineer Vladimir Shukhov. “In my daydreams I picture the Leyland bus as a thoroughbred horse who has found his perfect spot in the stable.” Konstantin Melnikov
The space has a very London feel, particularly the cafe, you almost feel like you are somewhere in the East End Ohhh and I loooooove the book store! I wish could buy every single book there and the apple crumble in the cafe was so yummy I almost ordered a second one.
Cannot wait to go back again!!!
Back in Hong Kong now and missing the snow just a little bit :)
Garage
Dasha Zhukova
Some of Moscow's most stylish girls at the moment
From Left to Right after the Celine show: Miroslava Duma,
(from Altamira Blogspot, March 2010)
Just outside my flat after it was snowing for 5 hours